Last updated on September 25th, 2024
Tosh had been on my bucket list for the longest time. And when I finally got the chance to experience the place, it was not exactly the way I had imagined it to be. It was much better.
Pale yellow light from behind the white sheer curtains filled up the room and gently woke me up. After hiding behind the grey clouds in the valley for two days, the sun had finally come up. And with that came back my strength, at least half of what I usually have. Excitement overpowered my lethargy and within seconds I managed to slip out from under the soft quilt that had managed to regulate my body temperature throughout the cool night. The medicines had made my mouth dry and tasteless. I was feeling better but not the best. Yet today, I had to challenge my own strength and had to take a tough decision. To trek or not. With the limited days left in the valley I knew I had to take a leap of faith. I weighed my options – The scenic Kheerganga or the quaint Tosh valley. The former seemed off limits. So, I decided to put up with the latter one for this time.
After the lightest breakfast that I could choose from the limited options available in our stay, we booked a private taxi to Barshaini. Choosing a taxi seemed like a good idea since I didn’t had the patience or the strength to wait for the local bus that could sometimes take more time than usual, halting at many places in between. While I sat comfortably in the plush seat of the taxi and looked out at the gorge sided view, a gush of cold air blew through my partially clutched hairs. This cool touch was enough to dissolve the lethargy I was feeling post my illness. After feeling stuck in a certain situation for a long time (2 days in my case), the taste of freedom hits differently. As I rode through the narrow curves, the majestic snow peaked mountains that had mesmerised me the first time I had landed in Kasol inched closer and closer. At one point I felt like I almost came adjacent to the peaks until the driver took a sharp turn.
My stomach churned with pain. Few more minutes into the ride and I could feel a strong urge to throw up. Not again, I silently prayed. But I guess I was out of luck for this time. After a medical mini halt that delayed us by almost 15-20 minutes, we reached Barshaini. The driver suggested us to take the cab till Tosh itself but we politely refused the offer as I was feeling much better after the throw up. I just hoped ‘the episode’ to be the last nail though.
From the Barshaini bus stand the road diverges into two halves. The right diversion takes you onto a path via the the dam to Kheerganga which is a mountain top that provides you access to natural hot water springs with an exquisite view. While the road towards the left takes you to the raw escape of the beautiful village, Tosh. Pre decided as it was, we went left.
I had lost a lot of body fluid hence my walk towards Tosh was too slow. Few minutes into the trek and I was already gasping for air. That was one instant when I doubted my decision and thought maybe I too would have continued the cab ride to Tosh. It would have not only saved me some time but also some strength. But God has different ways of changing perspectives.
Few more minutes into the trek and my belief in the saying ‘we are exactly where we should be in life’ deepened. Why? From where I stood, I could feel the cool breeze caressing my cheeks, could see the silver of the river coursing deep through the rocks below, the snow crowned at the head of those huge mountains, butterflies brushing past me every now and then. I could hear the birds singing in the background, hidden from the human eyes. On one side I could see the indistinct trail to the Kheerganga trek and on the other a multi-coloured village secured safely by the Himalayan range. That was exactly what my ailing body was craving for. At that moment I remained into nature’s warm embrace for the longest time I could possibly be. A smile touched my lips. I could feel my heart fluttering with joy without a reason. I think the vibe reached my partner as well because he behaved the way, sometimes, a parent behaves with a child, elated for nothing.
After an hour or so we reached the village tucked tight in the mighty Himalayan range. As an entry point to Tosh we had to cross a small bridge going above a brook. The scene looked no less than a fairytale. The narrow pathways lined up on either sides with coloured houses and compact-cozy cafes took us inside. The vibrancy of this village is unmatched to the other Himalayan villages I have been till now. I wondered is there a reason why the roofs are painted with such vibrant colours! In an otherwise quiet village, the only sounds that I could hear were of the cheerful cries of kids playing in a nearby government school. While I looked around and tried to take in the tranquility the place was offering, my stomach growled. My appetite was back! And lucky for me as then I would not have visited Pinky’s Didi Cafe. This cafe is hidden gem and its staff are the true magicians.
After having a light yet scrumptious meal my body felt much energised. The breathtaking views surrounding Tosh were enough to lure me deep into the village and explore the rest. And so I did. I must’ve taken many steep steps before I realised the fact that my physical calibre had increased to an appreciable extend. My respiratory rate seemed to be in a healthy range now. I wondered if it was the result of fresh air being pumped continuously in my lungs! The journey from my body deceiving me any moment to it getting stronger with each step, was no less than a miracle. I continued my journey through the rocky terrain of the curved paths until I could walk no more. After all, even the good things in life comes with a limit.
Tosh was a gentle reminder of the fact that this world has been curated in the best way possible for beings to flourish and things work best if they are left natural. The last few hours in Tosh were spent sipping on a cup of comforting herbal chai while gazing out of the tiny window of the cafe and getting lost in nature’s perfect colour scheme.I had heard that Mother Nature works in mysterious ways. Now, I can vouch that she does!